Staying at Château de Valcreuse in the Loire Valley, France
Our travels through France have taken us to some incredible places, but there’s something especially magical about staying in a French château in the countryside.
Near the charming village of La Roche-Posay, Château de Valcreuse is a place we’ve now had the joy of visiting three times—and every stay has been different and wonderful.
All three trips have been during the first week of September, and we’ve had beautiful weather each time. Warm, sunny days, cool mornings and evenings, and that gorgeous early-fall light make September one of our favorite times to visit this part of France.
Over the years, our weeks here have been filled with friendship, incredible food and wine, French markets, castles, medieval villages, history, and the slower rhythm of life in the countryside.
On our most recent visit, eight of us spent an unforgettable week exploring the region, visiting Leonardo da Vinci’s final home, listening to monks sing Gregorian chants, tasting local wines, enjoying meals prepared by wonderful chefs, and even harvesting grapes alongside the locals.
It reminded us all over again why we fell in love with this beautiful corner of France.
Where is Château de Valcreuse?
Château de Valcreuse sits near La Roche-Posay along the Creuse River, surrounded by beautiful countryside, historic villages, castles, vineyards, and farmland.
It’s peaceful enough that you can truly slow down, yet there is so much to see and do within driving distance.
Staying at Château de Valcreuse
The restored 19th-century château is elegant without feeling stuffy. We love the original hardwood floors, marble fireplaces, beautiful ceilings, grand staircase, enormous windows, and gorgeous modern French kitchen.
One of my favorite morning rituals is opening those huge windows, watching the sunrise, and enjoying an espresso.
Outside, the château is surrounded by beautiful grounds and mature trees, with a heated swimming pool and wonderful spaces for outdoor dining and gathering.
On our first visit, we picked peaches, apples, plums, pears, apricots, and figs from the property. There’s even an enchanting old tree swing that feels like something from another time.
This is the kind of place that makes you want to slow down and simply enjoy where you are.
Cooking and Eating at the Château
For us, staying here has always revolved around the table. We’ve shopped at the local market and returned to cook together in the château’s beautiful kitchen. We’ve grilled salmon and kebabs outside, lingered over breakfasts and espresso, and shared candlelit dinners beside the pool.
You can also arrange to have a chef come to the château and cook for your group as often as you’d like. We’ve enjoyed several incredible chef-prepared dinners during our stays, and it’s such a treat to gather around the table, enjoy a beautiful French meal, and not have to cook or clean up. It’s truly one of our favorite parts of the château experience.
On our most recent visit, we enjoyed several incredible meals prepared by local chefs. Some favorites included zucchini soup with crispy pork and hazelnuts, tender chicken with apple wine and carrot purée, beef cheek confit, creamy polenta, and Nougat de Tours.
One chicken dinner was so memorable that I came home inspired to create my own Apple Cider Chicken with a scrumptious carrot puree – Check out the recipe we developed. So good with thyme on top!
I love when travel follows us home through food.
Harvesting Grapes with the Locals
One of the most unforgettable experiences of our most recent stay was joining the locals for the grape harvest. We just happened to be there at the right time. Amazing experience!
We worked alongside them, learned about the harvest, and got to participate in a beautiful French tradition rather than simply watch it.
These are the kinds of unexpected experiences that make travel so special—and this is one we’ll never forget.
Exploring La Roche-Posay
One of our favorite things about Château de Valcreuse is being able to walk into the beautiful spa town of La Roche-Posay.
The town is famous for its thermal spring water and dermatological spa treatments, attracting visitors who come specifically to experience the thermal waters. You may also recognize the name La Roche-Posay from the French skincare brand, which has its roots right here!
On one of our visits, we bought a pass and spent time at the thermal spa, which was such a relaxing and uniquely French experience.
We also love walking into town for the local market, cafés and restaurants. There’s golf nearby, beautiful countryside for biking and walking, and plenty of opportunities to simply slow down and enjoy everyday French life.
Château de Chenonceau
One of our favorite day trips was the magnificent Château de Chenonceau, famously built across the River Cher.
Walking through the château and its gardens gives you such a fascinating glimpse into French history. It’s grand, romantic, and absolutely worth seeing while you’re in this part of France.
Amboise and Leonardo da Vinci
We also visited Amboise and Château du Clos Lucé, where Leonardo da Vinci spent the final years of his life.
Walking through his home and learning more about his art, inventions, and extraordinary mind was fascinating.
We also experienced a private wine tasting and visited a wine cave connected to Leonardo da Vinci, making this one of our favorite days of the trip.
A Day in Chinon + Wine Tasting at Château de la Grille
About an hour from Château de Valcreuse, we took a taxi to the beautiful historic town of Chinon. We spent time wandering the old streets, shopping, and enjoying a leisurely French lunch before heading to Château de la Grille for a private wine tasting.
Chinon is a wonderful town to explore, with medieval streets, cafés, shops, historic architecture, and the impressive Royal Fortress of Chinon overlooking the town and Vienne River.
We finished our day at Château de la Grille, tasting the Chinon wines the region is famous for. Such a fun and easy day trip from the château—shopping, history, lunch, and French wine!
Fontgombault Abbey
We’ve visited Abbaye Notre-Dame de Fontgombault, and it remains one of the most moving experiences we’ve had in France.
Sitting inside this ancient abbey and listening to the monks sing Gregorian chants is difficult to put into words.
My advice remains the same: bring Kleenex. It’s that beautiful.
Angles-sur-l’Anglin
Another favorite is Angles-sur-l’Anglin, a beautiful medieval village filled with historic stone buildings, winding streets, little shops, and incredible views.
We wandered, explored the historic sites, and stopped for lunch. It’s the kind of French village where you want to slow down and stay awhile.
A Day in Tours
We’ve also spent time exploring Tours, a lively city filled with historic architecture, churches, shopping, restaurants, and beautiful bridges crossing the Loire.
It’s a fun day trip when you want to mix a little city life into your week in the countryside.
What a Day at a French Château Looks Like
There really isn’t a typical day—and that’s part of the beauty of it.
Mornings start slowly with coffee and breakfast. Some days we walk to the market or head out to explore a château or medieval village. Other days might include yoga, a massage, golf, or simply relaxing around the property.
It’s great to cook your own meals as well. The kitchen is amazing! Market is twice a week.
Eventually everyone finds their way back to the kitchen and table, where we open some wine, cook—or let the chef cook!—and share another long dinner together.
One thing we’ve learned after three stays: don’t overschedule a château vacation.
The château itself is part of the experience.
How Do You Get to Château de Valcreuse?
We’ve done this a few different ways over our three visits.
Our first trip: There were six of us, and we took the train from Paris to Châtellerault.
Our second trip: We had a larger group of 14, so we arranged a private car service from Paris. The drive took approximately three hours.
Our third and most recent trip: There were eight of us, and we went back to taking the train. The ride was approximately 1½ hours, and it remains our favorite way to get there.
The train is our favorite! It’s comfortable, easy, and such a lovely way to leave busy Paris behind and watch the French countryside appear outside your window.
Once you’re in the area, I recommend having access to a car if you plan to explore the surrounding castles, villages, wineries, and countryside.
When is the Best Time to Visit?
We’ve stayed at Château de Valcreuse three times, always during the first week of September, and we’ve had wonderful weather each time.
The days have been warm and beautiful, while the mornings and evenings have that slight early-fall crispness we love.
For us, early September has been just about perfect—especially for eating outside, exploring the villages and countryside, and enjoying the château grounds.
And on our most recent trip, September also meant experiencing the excitement of grape harvest season.
Tips for Staying at a French Château
- Take the train from Paris. After doing it more than once, it’s still our favorite.
- Have access to a car once you arrive if you want to explore.
- Shop the local markets and cook at least one meal together.
- Enjoy a chef-prepared dinner if that experience is available.
- Plan a few wonderful day trips, but don’t fill every day.
- Leave time to enjoy the château. Swim, walk, cook, sip wine, and linger around the table.
Who Would Love a Château Vacation?
A French château stay is wonderful for groups of friends, families, couples traveling together, milestone birthdays, anniversaries, and special celebrations.
For current accommodations, availability, amenities, and booking information, visit the Château de Valcreuse website.
More European Travel We Love
If you’re planning more European travel, you may also enjoy our 10-day Viking Cruise from Athens to Venice, our guide to spending three days in Venice, and our three days in Dublin. Or, we also went to Bordeaux to visit 3 days!
A Week We’ll Never Forget
Years after our first visit, we’ve now returned to Château de Valcreuse three times, and somehow we seem to love it more with every stay.
Maybe it was harvesting grapes beside the locals, hearing the monks sing at the abbey, wandering through centuries-old castles and villages, enjoying a private wine tasting in the wine cave at Leonardo da Vinci’s château, lingering over incredible meals prepared by French chefs, or simply sitting around the table late into the evening with dear friends.
That’s what I love most about this kind of travel. You come home remembering the beautiful places, of course—but it’s the people, meals, conversations, and unexpected experiences that stay with you.
Three times we’ve been blessed to call this beautiful French château home for a week. And three times we’ve left wishing we could stay a little longer.
Quelle bénédiction! 🇫🇷 You can contact the chateau – private rentals!
Our original stay at Château de Valcreuse was complimentary. We were not paid or hired to write this post. All opinions and experiences shared are our own.
Hello and welcome to my home and table!
I’m Sandy—lover of food, family, cooking, THE BIG BOARD, travel, and bringing people together. Through great recipes and connection around the table, we become better, stronger, and more courageous people. Feasting on Life is real, and every time we do it, we grow a little more. Read more...
